Motherboard Capacitor Replacement

[Logan]

I'm 95% sure [from the research i've done] my current (main) system is suffering from a failing/bad capacitor, and my mb is like $300, so i'd prefer to save money, and learn at the same time... So, i have a few questions/statements:

1. How do i know the type of capacitor's i need? (https://www.jameco.com/shop/keyword=Buy-Electrolytic-Capacitors) Looks like a decent site to use, but my capacitor would need to be fairly heavy duty correct? as decent power draw, decent overclocks, etc etc. [I'll put my build as an end note] and i'd prefer not to have to replace a capacitor in the future. [I plan on doing more research of course, to learn What uF means, and to see how much voltage they would be...but i figured i'd go ahead and post this as you all are a lot smarter then I, and a lot more experienced, So the odd's of this being a "everyday thing" to you all is higher, which in turn means me asking now gives me time before the capacitor fully dies/etc]

2. Yes, i know it's risky/etc

3. Yes, i know it will still be semi-expensive as i'll probably buy a decent soldering iron, decent capacitors, a cheap test PSU, a PSU jumper, and maybe a cheap CPU, as i hear if i do it wrong, it could ruin other things, and i don't want my good CPU in it, if worse comes to worse. [As i don't think i can test the MB without a CPU, effectively ]

4. My Specs/system:
Cpu - i5-4690k @ 4.2
GPU - Gtx 970 @ +150 / +200
PSU - Silverstone - Strider Gold S 750 W
Mb - Sabertooth Z87
Ram - Corsair - Vengeance Pro 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR3-1866 Memory
misc - MB says Capacitors are:


"The ASUS SABERTOOTH Z87 uses high-end solid Japanese electrolytic capacitors, from Nichicon, on its voltage regulator circuit (a.k.a. “10K Black Metallic Capacitors”). According to ASUS, these capacitors have a lifespan five times longer than regular Japanese solid capacitors, and have a higher temperature tolerance (between -55° C and +105° C, making them military-grade components). This allows you to use liquid nitrogen on your CPU without damaging the capacitors.


All coils used on this motherboard are ferrite-core models."

AND


"TUF Components
Certified for tough duty
TUF 10K black metallic capacitors and MOSFETs are screened by seven rigorous military-grade tests to ensure superior lifespan even under the most demanding conditions. "

 

[frase]

Check on the capacitor you are removing should have it written on it. If you dont know much about electronics and what uF means. Can be purchased from any local electronic store, they are all made in China just depends on the $$ you wish to spend.

 

[Romaniac]

Yes, there should be info on whatever you're removing. If not, well.. MAYBE you can ask the mobo maker for some assistance; but that me be a giant waste of time.

Also, instead of buying an iron and all that, why don't you just find someone local that can help you? It'll be faster n cost less (should be, anyway).

 

[Logan]

Yes, there should be info on whatever you're removing. If not, well.. MAYBE you can ask the mobo maker for some assistance; but that me be a giant waste of time.

Also, instead of buying an iron and all that, why don't you just find someone local that can help you? It'll be faster n cost less (should be, anyway).

There isn't anyone Local, or anyone near me that would know how to do that.
And it would be a good learning experience, etc.

The only/main prob i'm having is to make sure i actually get the right capacitor, as In the MB manual, there's nothing usefull except "Supports up to a massive 40A rated Current" Which is probably usefull. and i've scoured google and got nothing of importance, but Frase there ^ said i should be able to see/read it on the cap itself, which i'll do soon (my board has "thermal armor" so i can't see anything under it atm.

Actually getting the soldering iron, etc is easy enough, doing it looks fairly easy (though looks can be decieving)

 

[oldtech]

Not sure what your main goal is here whether it is to just gain some experience or to save money but you will be better off financially in the long run replacing the board or sending sending it to Asus for repair. Most modern boards are multilayer and as such do not respond well to soldering irons. By the time you get done futzing around you will probably be out the cost of the iron, capacitor and replacement board.

 

[Altster]

IF you DO decide to do this yourself, be sure to get the exact "uf" (capacitance) of the capacitor(s) and I would suggest a higher voltage-rated one. And expect to replace more than one if they are the very least bulged on top or bottom or sides.

That is what I do / did when I repaired PSU in LCD monitors or any PSU (Power Supply Unit.)

 

[backwoodsman]

Actually getting the soldering iron, etc is easy enough, doing it looks fairly easy (though looks can be decieving)

If you don't already know how to solder, then a motherboard, or any board you want to work afterwards, is not the place to start learning. You really want to get pretty good with a soldering iron before you touch anything important. Learn and practice on stuff that doesn't matter.

 

[fencepost]

If you have to get a soldering iron for this then expect failure. Among other issues, an inexpensive soldering iron and work station may well not be much good. You'll need an iron with a fine point, rat's nest of copper to clean it, wick, flux and solder. You'll need to remove the old solder with the wick and maybe a solder sucker from the underside of the board, remove the cap, put the new one in place, do your soldering making sure you have the right connections (top of board or bottom?), trim the ends.

That said, any capacitor large enough for you to be working with should have the size information printed on it large enough to read.

I'd let Louis Rossman videos satisfy my urge to do things like this.

 

[frase]

De-Soldering stations are good - I use them on old c64 boards

I have a Hakko Station - expensive but good.

Would advise to add a lil solder to the joint to allow some give before using the tool.

 

[wavey]

All you need to know about capacitors here www.badcaps.net