NviGate Systems
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- Reaction score
- 1,164
- Location
- Vancouver
https://www.amazon.ca/clouddrive/sh...EwOdk0TG7K8?v=grid&ref_=cd_ph_share_link_copy
So this is my current project I am working on. At work my boss had an old Pioneer ELITE that died, so I took the shell home and started to convert it.
I am using the front panel connectors, so the power button, USB and Audio ports will function. I put two USB 3 hubs inside, one is powered, one has Ethernet. It's hard to see from the photos but there is a Digital Shuriken LAN Tap, which provides a way to monitor Ethernet networks. So one card is used to connect to a network as per normal, the other card can listen to all traffic. Normally this card is mobile so you can better change hosts, but it works good here.
I am going to be using Linux on this box, hence the reason for the USB Audio card, as these Atom boards don't always have the best support.
There is a single 12V 4A input at the back which goes to a relay of sorts, which then goes to two Buck Converters. The large beefy one with the coil and heatsinks provides 5V 4A and the secondary one is 5V 20mA, just for front LED's. Under the foam core where the board sits is a 90MM fan, but the Buck Converter I had died, so it's not connected right now.
The back USB ports are a combination of foam adhesive strips (to get the level right for each port) and silicone. From the inside it may look ugly, but from the back, it actually looks OK.
The DC In is just next to an HDMI connector which I used to extend the board's HDMI output to the back of the case.
I was going to use the COB LED's to illuminate where the Pioneer's LCD Display was but instead chose to simply take some black thich paper and block it off. I'll have photos of that later.
At the back of the case, since this Pioneer had Ethernet, I will use a connector (Female - Female) to simply bridge things.
I had to redo the front panel connectors at one point. So in one photo they are all disconnected.
I had one of those cheap IrDA remote controllers, so I used 3 wires to extend the IrDA sensor so it fits right in the windows where the original Pioneer IrDA was. The rest of the controller is then hot glued to the side.
I plan on adding some RCA connections on the back (if I have time/want to) but I would need to find a way to enable switching, as the USB Card has multiple input outputs, but I do not believe they are isolated channels. Which means if you have headphones and speakers, they both will output.
I did a brief power test today, all LED's work, the system board LED comes on then powers off which is normal for this brand.
I'm thinking if all goes well with this Mod, I may do more. I have a few laptop boards that came from failed enclosures/hinges and they could work good, seeing as how one is an i5.
Just have to decide what to put it in. I have seen some iMacs on eBay for cheap, if I knew I could get a controller kit fro an iMac LCD for a reasonable price, might be worth to put an i5 in an iMac. That would be fun!
So this is my current project I am working on. At work my boss had an old Pioneer ELITE that died, so I took the shell home and started to convert it.
I am using the front panel connectors, so the power button, USB and Audio ports will function. I put two USB 3 hubs inside, one is powered, one has Ethernet. It's hard to see from the photos but there is a Digital Shuriken LAN Tap, which provides a way to monitor Ethernet networks. So one card is used to connect to a network as per normal, the other card can listen to all traffic. Normally this card is mobile so you can better change hosts, but it works good here.
I am going to be using Linux on this box, hence the reason for the USB Audio card, as these Atom boards don't always have the best support.
There is a single 12V 4A input at the back which goes to a relay of sorts, which then goes to two Buck Converters. The large beefy one with the coil and heatsinks provides 5V 4A and the secondary one is 5V 20mA, just for front LED's. Under the foam core where the board sits is a 90MM fan, but the Buck Converter I had died, so it's not connected right now.
The back USB ports are a combination of foam adhesive strips (to get the level right for each port) and silicone. From the inside it may look ugly, but from the back, it actually looks OK.
The DC In is just next to an HDMI connector which I used to extend the board's HDMI output to the back of the case.
I was going to use the COB LED's to illuminate where the Pioneer's LCD Display was but instead chose to simply take some black thich paper and block it off. I'll have photos of that later.
At the back of the case, since this Pioneer had Ethernet, I will use a connector (Female - Female) to simply bridge things.
I had to redo the front panel connectors at one point. So in one photo they are all disconnected.
I had one of those cheap IrDA remote controllers, so I used 3 wires to extend the IrDA sensor so it fits right in the windows where the original Pioneer IrDA was. The rest of the controller is then hot glued to the side.
I plan on adding some RCA connections on the back (if I have time/want to) but I would need to find a way to enable switching, as the USB Card has multiple input outputs, but I do not believe they are isolated channels. Which means if you have headphones and speakers, they both will output.
I did a brief power test today, all LED's work, the system board LED comes on then powers off which is normal for this brand.
I'm thinking if all goes well with this Mod, I may do more. I have a few laptop boards that came from failed enclosures/hinges and they could work good, seeing as how one is an i5.
Just have to decide what to put it in. I have seen some iMacs on eBay for cheap, if I knew I could get a controller kit fro an iMac LCD for a reasonable price, might be worth to put an i5 in an iMac. That would be fun!
