[REQUEST] Searching for a power supply for an animated witch

Appletax

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I've got an animated/moving witch for Halloween that's power supply probably got chewed up by mice in the basement. I could probably get a cable stripper for tiny cables and splice them together, but I would rather just get a brand new cable if not too pricey.

Specs: Class 2 Power Supply AC/DC Adapter - Model: JY15-060-100-UD - Input: 100-240V ~ 50/60Hz 0.4A - Output: 6V - 1000mA (or 1A).

The tip is approx. 5mm wide measured end to end.

Searched for it via Google, Amazon, and eBay with no results for this specific model.

The closest thing I could find was one on eBay that has the right voltage and amperage, but the tip isn't right.

What to do?

Power Supply (1).jpg

Power Supply (2).jpg

Power Supply (3).jpg

Edit: here's a picture of the witch that was purchased at Spirit Halloween about 12 years ago.

Witch.jpg
 
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I've got an animated/moving witch for Halloween that's power supply probably got chewed up by mice in the basement. I could probably get a cable stripper for tiny cables and splice them together, but I would rather just get a brand new cable if not too pricey.

Specs: Class 2 Power Supply AC/DC Adapter - Model: JY15-060-100-UD - Input: 100-240V ~ 50/60Hz 0.4A - Output: 6V - 1000mA (or 1A)

The tip is approx. 4.5mm wide measured end to end.

Searched for it via Google, Amazon, and eBay with no results for this specific model.

The closest thing I could find was one on eBay that has the right voltage and amperage, but the tip isn't right.

What to do?

View attachment 16646

View attachment 16647
I needed one of these things for a signage light box that came without one. It was the same as another light box so I took the adapter to the local Boys & Girls thrift store with me and found a match. It was less than $5 and I didn't have to wait for it to be shipped to me. I bought 2, just in case. They both work great.
 
I've accumulated a box of those little power adapters over the years. I've changed to a bigger box twice. There must be close to 50 adapters in there by now. In fact there's a sub-box inside the big box just for 12 volt adapters and it's overflowing. I just can't seem to let go (although that box has saved me on more than 1 occasion - heh!)
 
Splice the pieces together and be done with it.

I've accumulated a box of those little power adapters over the years. I've changed to a bigger box twice. There must be close to 50 adapters in there by now. In fact there's a sub-box inside the big box just for 12 volt adapters and it's overflowing. I just can't seem to let go (although that box has saved me on more than 1 occasion - heh!)
I've got a 2' square box that over flowing with them. Like you it's make me look like a miracle worker on several occasions.
 
Interestingly, the 24 AWG cable has Huawei printed on it. I tried soldering years ago, but was bad at it. I did not receive any in-person assistance, tho, which probably would have helped tremendously. I could twist the wired together, cap them, and wrap them good with electrical tape. Or, I could ask my friend and local PC tech to solder it for me if that would result in a much better repair.
 
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I may have found a new one on eBay. I searched "Huawei 6v 1000ma" and found this:

2.png

It has a 5.5mm tip and looks exactly the same as the one on my power supply. However, I measured the tip at 4.5mm but maybe that's not so accurate and does not matter. I will message the seller to see what they think.
 
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Or, I could ask my friend and local PC tech to solder it for me if that would result in a much better repair.

It's not necessarily "better" other than it's almost impossible to accidentally rip the twisted wire sets apart. A solid twisted pair that's been pre-treated with electrically conductive grease to prevent oxidation (not needed, or wanted, if soldering) will work just fine. Just make sure you individually wrap each wire, and then overwrap the set of 2 (or more, sometimes) at the end with electrical tape.

Soldering wire is very, very easy and the thing that most people don't do, which is essential, is pre-heating not only the soldering iron, but the wire itself. You will never get good solder flow on cold wire; you have to keep the iron in touch with the twisted strands for at least 15 seconds or so, then apply the solder directly on to the wire where the tip of the iron is placed. It should instantly flow and go into the crevices. Even more so if you have applied flux to the twisted wires before pre-heating.
 
keep the iron in touch with the twisted strands for at least 15 seconds or so

Also, the amount of time will depend very much on the wattage of the soldering iron. For most electrical soldering I'm using a pen-style 30W iron. Even that if left in contact with the wire long enough, will heat the wire such that the insulation begins to melt a bit right where the wire enters it. If you're using a 100W iron at full heat, the amount of time it takes to heat the wire up is substantially shorter.
 
Interestingly, the 24 AWG cable has Huawei printed on it. I tried soldering years ago, but was bad at it. I did not receive any in-person assistance, tho, which probably would have helped tremendously. I could twist the wired together, cap them, and wrap them good with electrical tape. Or, I could ask my friend and local PC tech to solder it for me if that would result in a much better repair.
When it comes to wire splicing solder is not needed. Mechanical methods have been around for years and are extremely reliable. Like butt splices and dolphin splices.
The down side to butt splices is you do have to strip the wire before crimping. With dolphin splices it's not necessary since the inside is full thin sharp "pins" which will penetrate the insulation to establish continuity when crimped with pliers. On top of that they have indoor versions, white, and outdoor versions, blue, which has a non-conductive grease to help protect agains corrosion and/or water damage.
 
Mechanical methods have been around for years and are extremely reliable.

With the proviso, "if you do them correctly."

I've seen more botched crimp connections than I care to remember, mostly those "not crimped enough" such that one side or the other eventually falls out.

But a good crimp connection can be very solid indeed. I've done most of these that I have done in automotive applications.
 
When it comes to wire splicing solder is not needed. Mechanical methods have been around for years and are extremely reliable. Like butt splices and dolphin splices.
The down side to butt splices is you do have to strip the wire before crimping. With dolphin splices it's not necessary since the inside is full thin sharp "pins" which will penetrate the insulation to establish continuity when crimped with pliers. On top of that they have indoor versions, white, and outdoor versions, blue, which has a non-conductive grease to help protect agains corrosion and/or water damage.

Wow. That would be much easier.

I found this really nice butt splice at Menards, but it's not quite the right size for the 24 AWG wire on the power supply. Would it be good enough?

Maybe this would work, but I sure don't want 50 pieces since I only need 2 of them.
 
The eBay option will likely be cheapest. But, that being said, virtually any auto parts store you can name has butt splices in all sorts of sizes.

I can also check my stash (as I always bought these in 50 packs) to see what I've got for small AWG if you want. I'm happy to send a couple by USPS in an envelope, as I doubt at my age that I will ever go through my remaining supply.
 
Wow. That would be much easier.

I found this really nice butt splice at Menards, but it's not quite the right size for the 24 AWG wire on the power supply. Would it be good enough?

Maybe this would work, but I sure don't want 50 pieces since I only need 2 of them.
The trick to success when the the wire gauge is smaller than the recommended is to strip off 1". Then double it over which increases the diameter. But the key to butt splices is you really need to use the proper crimper.

With the proviso, "if you do them correctly."

I've seen more botched crimp connections than I care to remember, mostly those "not crimped enough" such that one side or the other eventually falls out.

But a good crimp connection can be very solid indeed. I've done most of these that I have done in automotive applications.
As I said above. But with Dolphin connectors it's not near as critical. Use any kind of pliers. I've even bitten down with my molars rather than take 15+ minutes to go retrieve a pair of pliers. Those metal slivers do a wonderful job. By the way they are also known as B connectors.
 
@Appletax

In checking my stash I have a baggie of 24 butt splices for 26 to 22 gauge wire. If you'd like me to mail you a couple, send me a private message with your physical address and I'll drop a few in the mail.
 
I tend to solder and heat-shrink all my connections as I've seen too many crimped connections fail after several/many years. The "new' thing now is the heat-shrink solder connectors without the need of an iron or solder. I've bought some but haven't really used them yet. (Still stuck in my solder and heat-shrink ways).

 
@Diggs

Does one use a heat gun, much like one does for paint stripping (but probably much smaller and more precise), to apply these things?

Definitely a very nice 2-in-1 setup if they work as advertised. The heat shrink wrap also acts as a bit of a stress relief, too.
 
I tend to solder and heat-shrink all my connections as I've seen too many crimped connections fail after several/many years. The "new' thing now is the heat-shrink solder connectors without the need of an iron or solder. I've bought some but haven't really used them yet. (Still stuck in my solder and heat-shrink ways).

Interesting product. I've never been a fan of low temp solders but I'm guessing that why there is the shrink tube and epoxy ring.
 
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