[REQUEST] HP 24-K0024 (AIO) Will Not Launch to BIOS with Replacement Motherboard

[Billed1954]

Recently, I replaced the Motherboard on a HP 24-K0024 All-In-One Desktop that experienced a power surge. Previously, the computer deteriorated to only powering on and the "PLUS" icon would only appear for where you can tweak "Color," "Power," "Management," "Information," or "Exit". There is no change with the replacement motherboard. Among the options was to do a "original manufacturers reset."With the brand new motherboard, I still have the same issues. I replaced the CMOS battery, tested with another compatible power supply, lubricated/rotated the RAM (PC4-2666V," installed a replacement Western Digital 1TB SSD drive (to reprogram), cleared CMOS (by removing battery and unplugging to drain the power 30 seconds). When I removed the battery and drained the power, I would occasionally get a checksum error and something about the computer resetting (could not act fast enough for the options and then we'd be back to square one. When I got the checksum pop-ups, the keyboard would have a flashing light but I could not control. As I keep trying the CMOS resets, I am causing more wear & tear on my ribbons & connections and the wide monitor ribbon cable connection is starting to crumble on the left side although the ribbon contacts are still good (already replaced that previously). There was a previous inquiry from someone else about 2 years ago but no answers. I am really hoping to restore this computer but getting discouraged. Any help would be most appreciated! Pleased to be part of this great forum. Thank you!

 

[Markverhyden]

These days 30 seconds is often not long enough. Leave the CMOS battery out overnight with no AC. Before putting it back in push and hold down the power button if there is one for around 15-20 seconds. Where did the board come from? Are you sure you got the correct board?

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[Billed1954]

Thank you Mark! The board was purchased from an eBay seller that claimed the board was new (open box). As I write this, just pulled out the CMOS battery and computer was unplugged. If I'm lucky, I'll at least get the checksum error in the morning and hopefully it stays up long enough for me to capture the whole error and actions required. What's interesting is that this replacement motherboard is exhibiting the exact same behavior as the one that took the zap. There is no separate powerboard and I don't have any additional RAM with this version or newer.

 

[Markverhyden]

Thank you Mark! The board was purchased from an eBay seller that claimed the board was new (open box). As I write this, just pulled out the CMOS battery and computer was unplugged. If I'm lucky, I'll at least get the checksum error in the morning and hopefully it stays up long enough for me to capture the whole error and actions required. What's interesting is that this replacement motherboard is exhibiting the exact same behavior as the one that took the zap. There is no separate powerboard and I don't have any additional RAM with this version or newer.

Best of luck. OEM's do not retail their FRU's so it's almost guaranteed that the board is a cull. As with any culled parts it's a crap shoot. Especially for parts that are difficult to test. I used to do OEM repairs for all the big names years ago so am quite familiar with their procedures. HP used to offer, over 15 years ago, onsite repairs for qualified products. But I also know they stopped offering that for AIO's due to the complexity of the devices and the lack of skilled technicians.

 

[frase]

Is there a jumper pins on the mobo, where you can short the BIOS with a screwdriver or a jumper for about 5 seconds. Doing so with the power off and all cables disconnected. Reseat cables and turn system on.

1 & 3 Pins are reset I think you will need to refer to the schematics these are the pins.

Shift the Middle Jumper to the Third Jumper

 

[Billed1954]

Best of luck. OEM's do not retail their FRU's so it's almost guaranteed that the board is a cull. As with any culled parts it's a crap shoot. Especially for parts that are difficult to test. I used to do OEM repairs for all the big names years ago so am quite familiar with their procedures. HP used to offer, over 15 years ago, onsite repairs for qualified products. But I also know they stopped offering that for AIO's due to the complexity of the devices and the lack of skilled technicians.

Thank you Mark, and for that very reason that I'm not a fan of AIO's.

 

[Billed1954]

Is there a jumper pins on the mobo, where you can short the BIOS with a screwdriver or a jumper for about 5 seconds. Doing so with the power off and all cables disconnected. Reseat cables and turn system on.

1 & 3 Pins are reset I think you will need to refer to the schematics these are the pins.

Shift the Middle Jumper to the Third Jumper

View attachment 16744

Thank you Frase. Now this is interesting. This is what I did (with power plug pulled). But you are also mentioning all cables disconnected - which I didn't do. Are we talking about all USB cables connected in the back of display, or also internally, including the WiFi plug?

 

[Markverhyden]

If it was me, after clearing CMOS, I'd plug in the absolutely minimum stuff to power up the machine and get video. Then do one at a time. pain the butt but sometimes it's unavoidable.

 

[Billed1954]

If it was me, after clearing CMOS, I'd plug in the absolutely minimum stuff to power up the machine and get video. Then do one at a time. pain the butt but sometimes it's unavoidable.

Do I clear CMOS each time as I'm pulling each cable to test? I will pull all USB in back also.

 

[frase]

I was meaning any external cables attached to the device - then once cleared just plug the power cable in nothing else and power up.
I would not goes as far as removing Wifi card as I do not see how that could halt it.

Unlpug all external cables connected to device
Remove RAM
Clear CMOS via Jumpers
Wait a few seconds
Insert RAM
Connect POWER CABLE only.
Power up Test.

 

[Billed1954]

Well Mark, from so many times taking the CMOS battery in & out, the CMOS holder finally broke from the motherboard and the contacts. That could have been part of the problem? The third picture is from the original MB. Maybe that this has been loose could be the culprit? Now, can I solder it back and how to affix it so it doesn't move again (if soldering is an option)??

 

[Billed1954]

I was meaning any external cables attached to the device - then once cleared just plug the power cable in nothing else and power up.
I would not goes as far as removing Wifi card as I do not see how that could halt it.

Unlpug all external cables connected to device
Remove RAM
Clear CMOS via Jumpers
Wait a few seconds
Insert RAM
Connect POWER CABLE only.
Power up Test.

Ah, I did that - had to reconnect the keyboard. It showed as a keyboard failure when getting to reset. I disconnected the mouse and can reconnect the WiFi card except I have a LITTLE SETBACK. From so many times taking the CMOS Battery in & out, it finally broke away from the board. Now, as I asked Mark if I have a shot to resolder this - - perhaps because it was loose that a vital solder connection broke under it and now I have my answer if I can fix resolder it? Not much to work with . . . (at least I hope this is entertaining to you & Mark).

 

[Billed1954]

Update 09/24/24: I'm getting help to attempt the resolder of the CMOS holder but went ahead to order another motherboard. I noticed that one of the wires to the Touch USB cable was broken and now wondering if this has been the culprit all along before I broke the CMOS holder from too much handling. So I ordered a replacement Touch USB cable, as well as another LCD display ribbon cable which is starting to get worn from too many installations. So would a broken touch cable "do the trick" in preventing a clean BIOS reset??

 

[HCHTech]

I can't imagine a broken cable stopping the boot, but a shorted cable certainly could. You gotta be more careful with those CMOS battery changes - haha. I usually use a curved hemostat to pinch the retaining clip against the holder, the battery usually then pops right out by the spring built into the bottom contact.

 

[NviGate Systems]

Also curious how much $$ you plan on putting in this machine?

Instead of replacing the board, couldn't you have ordered one of those solder ready cmos battery with the shrink wrap and wire leads? I would bet they are cheaper than a new board.....

 

[frase]

I can't imagine a broken cable stopping the boot, but a shorted cable certainly could. You gotta be more careful with those CMOS battery changes - haha. I usually use a curved hemostat to pinch the retaining clip against the holder, the battery usually then pops right out by the spring built into the bottom contact.

Ha then flings like a catapult accross the board always. I would agree only if it were shorthed were it to cause an issue, though with it removed that would cease that problem. That would be a better idea with the 2pin CMOS battery, though one would have to be exact on the part though and then board is not default with those. TBH I have never personally replaced a CMOS battery with those on AIO motherboards, just resoldered.

 

[Billed1954]

Also curious how much $$ you plan on putting in this machine?

Instead of replacing the board, couldn't you have ordered one of those solder ready cmos battery with the shrink wrap and wire leads? I would bet they are cheaper than a new board.....

I will take your suggestion and pursue a solder-ready battery with the shrink wrap & wire leads. The latest motherboard I got had a loose CMOS battery connection which I tried to tighten and reinforce with electrical tape but the same exact scenario - - would not cold boot & the BIOS would have to be reset. Only this time, I had pulled the screen to replace the monitor ribbon cable but then one of the cables would not release from the brittle plastic port and both came off the board. Before the cable & port severed from the board, I had replaced all but the monitor LCD ribbon cable and wondering if a short in the cable there could have screwed up the bios & took out the ability of a new SSD I bought for this AO1 to do smart monitoring of that SSD? Yes, you can tell this is a new arena for me (and now reservoir of non-publishable profanity associated with this "educational project."

 

[Billed1954]

Also curious how much $$ you plan on putting in this machine?

Instead of replacing the board, couldn't you have ordered one of those solder ready cmos battery with the shrink wrap and wire leads? I would bet they are cheaper than a new board.....

Regarding the project costs, I have put approximately $80-$90 USD into this so far. Of the 3 motherboards I obtained ($30 each), one of them was a no-charge replacement. I spent another $40 in replacement RAM presuming the original ones were damaged with the original power surge - to rule out CMOS issues there. I spent about another $35-$40 in replacement cables, so about $135-$150 overhead so far. If I get this to work properly, I can resell this back to the client for approx. $375 to $400. Because this is a 3 yr. old AIO that otherwise runs beautifully with Windows 11, I was hoping to resurrect this AIO and will not dump much more into this unit. We'll try the soldering route with the 2nd motherboard. That will be my last attempt. Perhaps the LCD cable (which was still working was getting worn and some of the screen noise from being loose could have been the culprit). As you can see, I see this more as a "educational project" and for me to better understand BIOS challenges, which especially seem to predominate in HP products. THANK YOU for staying the course with me FRASE.!