iPad repair help

[trevm999]

To start off, I don't really know much about iPad repair. I took 2 iPad 2s from work that had been abandoned. The one didn't power on at all. The other would give an error that Apple does not recognize the device when it is connected to itunes and after it was restored to default (and thus would not be able to finish setup).

Now the video I was following on how to take them apart told me to use a putty knife, so I did. I ended up cracking the first digitizer. For the next one I didn't use a putty knife and thus the digitizer did not crack. However, the guide must have been for the wifi only version because it told me there was no cable you could damage on the left side. Thus, on the digitizer that I didn not crack, I broke the cable.

I swapped the LCD panel to see if the dead one just had a panel, no luck. I also found liquid damage on the dock port, so I swapped it and no luck. At this point I am thinking it must be the battery, so I swap the logic boards because that looked easier than swapping the battery. Still no power. So I assume battery.

Now for the other one, the logic board from the dead one seemed to work fine. I connected the cracked digitizer to it and I discovered that the bottom is not recognizing any touch. So I am assuming this means that the digitizer is also bad - I damaged the cable, or because of the liquid damage, or maybe because of the crack? Does this sound right? I just want to double check because there was liquid damage so I am hoping the logic board is not damaged as well. It does recognize touch just not at the bottom. So, it is very highly likely that the digitizer is the problem, right?

 

[nhicktrush]

I'm also interested on this topic, please share your expertise here TechNibble. My daughter's iPad needs some fixing also.

 

[Boston Pro Comp Serv LLC]

I'd say so. It's a lot easier to remove the digitizers with a heat gun. The adhesive will soften and you can use a suction cup and a putty knife (or the flat metal shiv that many places sell) to lift the digitizer right up. You still have to careful not to damage the wifi cable or 3G cables. I use the metal tool to get between the digitizer and the cables while using the heat gun. Works really well. After you do a few if you start on the right hand side (home button at the bottom toward you), and put a suction cup midway up about two inches from the right hand edge. Heat the right hand side and the upper and lower right hand corners really well, you can lift the digitizer just like a book cover, using the metal tool to separate the wifi/3G cables from the digitizer as you go.

 

[trevm999]

Thanks for the tips. I was using a heat gun, maybe it was because my putty knife was from the dollar store. What I ended up using was a guitar pick and one of those plastic pry tools. Mostly the guitar pick to cut the adhesive and every once in a while I would pry it up with the plastic tool. It way my guitar pick that cut the cable though . I might have to get one of those metal shivs, the starting incision was the hardest, I tried to use a suction cup, but it didn't seem to help, but I will try it your way next time, I ended up using a small flatehead screwdriver to start the one I didn't break. The one I did break looked like the corner of the iPad had been smashed a little, so I think it was easier and the putty knife went in without too much difficulty.

I'm curious how well the new rotating disc tool apple has designed for the new iMac might do on the iPad. It might be too flimsy though.

 

[Boston Pro Comp Serv LLC]

I guess it's called an opening tool but I have three of these. http://www.repairsuniverse.com/ipad...campaign=pla&gclid=CKmF-Z3W37UCFQdU4AodgAcAKA

A kit like this has helpful stuff especially for inserting between after you've created some space between the digitizer and the frame. (I stick those blue plastic pieces in there). http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...E16899263032&gclid=CIL_wOTY37UCFUVN4Aod7XQACA

If you don't like the suction cup method or the adhesive cools to quick, than you can use the opening tools only. Insert one on the right hand side about a 1/4 of the way up. Twist it to apply separating pressure, and use the heat gun, the digitizer will separate slowly. When it opens a gap big enough insert one of those plastic iPhone tools to keep the space open. Continue around applying separation pressure while heating the digitizer, the adhesive will continue to separate. Keep inserting plastic tools to keep it open, and keep in mind the wifi/3G cables. I did it this way until I had done about 50 of them. You can use this method and start on either or the right hand corners as well. It works well too. Is this a clear explanation? If its not I can probably snap a few pics or take a small video of it. It's really pretty easy to do, you just have to get used to the right amount of pressure, or pick the right spots to apply it. Especially when the digitizer is already cracked or cracked all over the place. Really as long as you don't insert the tools to far in, the only places to watch out for are the wifi, 3G cables and the power button ribbon which is on the right hand side a couple of inches below the top corner. Sometimes I find the adhesive sticks to that power ribbon and lifts with it a bit, especially if the digitizer has been changed before and someone put adhesive over it. Of course you don't want to damage that power button cable with the opening tool, I've done that, and it's a real pain to change.

 

[PCX]

On the note of the Digitizer not working properly, there are two parts with two connecting points for the digitizer. Each of these two parts control half the digitizer. The connector that controls the bottom portion may be damaged. One way I have found to fix this is by finding a fairly stiff but relatively thin piece of plastic and insert it above the cable in order to apply enough pressure for the cable to make a good connection. Try this and see how it works. If that does not work, then either the digitizer or digitizer cable is more than likely damaged.

 

[compnet]

I had a guy mangle one of the digitizer ports on the logic board when he tried changing the digitizer causing half the screen not to work.. a crack wouldn't do that.. All of the ones we get in with shattered screens the digitizer still works fine.

Also I find a nice razor/box cutter and a metal spudger like boston linked perfect for opening. Slowly work your way down heating it up along the way and using plastic spudgers to keep open where you have already opened.

 

[trevm999]

Is this a clear explanation? If its not I can probably snap a few pics or take a small video of it. It's really pretty easy to do, you just have to get used to the right amount of pressure, or pick the right spots to apply it.

Thanks, I think I will probably just have to get the feel for it though

On the note of the Digitizer not working properly, there are two parts with two connecting points for the digitizer. Each of these two parts control half the digitizer.

Good to know, I wasn't sure if this was the case or if the one was just for the home button. I took another look at it, I found that the part of the digitizer cable that sits under the lcd panel is damaged. It looked a bit corroded, I tried to clean it off and there was no protective insulation over parts of it. I think that must be the problem, but with liquid damage, there is never a guarentee, I will try a new digitzer though

a crack wouldn't do that.. All of the ones we get in with shattered screens the digitizer still works fine.

Thanks. I have seen them cracked and still working, but I'm not too sure about how the digitizer works so I didn't know if that may affect it or not.

Two more questions for you guys. What do you use to seal the iPad back up? In the video they just used two sided tape, but I am kind of sceptical about that. Also, are you able to do the repair without damaging the black bead that surrounds the digitizer, or will there always be some imprints?

 

[compnet]

Good 3m double sided tape, they sell ipad 2 precut strips on ebay. If you clean the frame well, apply the strips, put the digitizer down, and then heat it up and apply pressure it works really well.

The little screwdriver damages the outer bezel. A razor and wide spudger won't. They are like 2 bucks on ebay though if you want to replace it.

 

[madcow007]

I have done a few screen replacements normally they come with pre cut 3m adhesive

I used http://www.amazon.com/Newer-Technology-iSesamo-Ultra-thin-opening/dp/B00792JJK4

and my aoyue hot air rework station to heat the screen

 

[dgiles79]

and my aoyue hot air rework station to heat the screen

Do you mind sharing what temp settings you normally use?

 

[madcow007]

Do you mind sharing what temp settings you normally use?

Sorry not sure I just cranked up the hot air and went by touch really.

 

[16k_zx81]

Sorry not sure I just cranked up the hot air and went by touch really.

I keep it 90-100 degrees. If you run the air too hot it will melt the 3g module on 3g units. Best way I have found is to use a variable temp hot air gun in one hand and a infrared thermometer in the other. With the infrared, its good to get one with a relatively fast polling speed, as screens are only very thin glass and can change temperature very quickly.

Jim

 

[16k_zx81]

ipad panelbeating rig (for chassis)

http://prntscr.com/v1xxf

 

[dgiles79]

ipad panelbeating rig (for chassis)

http://prntscr.com/v1xxf

That's awesome. Is that something you put together yourself?

 

[16k_zx81]

That's awesome. Is that something you put together yourself?

Actually I cant take credit for the construction. I put the design to my Father In Law who's very handy with wood. He knocked it together for me.

..

 

[ElementalWindX]

I have done a few screen replacements normally they come with pre cut 3m adhesive

I used http://www.amazon.com/Newer-Technology-iSesamo-Ultra-thin-opening/dp/B00792JJK4

and my aoyue hot air rework station to heat the screen

What do you guys do for sourcing screens and digitizers? I have all these tools already and want to get into this type of work. However I keep reading reviews on amazon about how some screens don't appear OEM or have a slight difference here and there.

 

[dgiles79]

What do you guys do for sourcing screens and digitizers? I have all these tools already and want to get into this type of work. However I keep reading reviews on amazon about how some screens don't appear OEM or have a slight difference here and there.

I use Wholesale Gadget Parts for all my iPhone, iPod, and iPad screens. They seem to have good consistent quality.