System shuts down after est. 30 seconds

[frase]

Windows 10
Gigabyte Board
8GB RAM
M.2 Card
Gigabyte GFX Low Profile
CoolerMaster 500W PSU

I have a very odd issue with a client, I built this system around May 2022. There was no issues at all until two or three days ago. The issue is the system boots and logs into windows fine. Then no matter what one is doing it suddenly stated "System is Shutting Down" then shuts down for no reason. The confusing this is it works fine in my workshop with no shutdown problems or any issues.

I have tried connecting the PC to another Monitor
- Connected to another Power Point in the house
- Changed all cabling
- Ran a stress test and had a video looping overnight in my workshop with no issues.
- Owner is an electrician, so I got him to test points they are outputting 240V which seems normal to me.

It has got me stumped as to what it can be, any ideas?

 

[Sky-Knight]

So you plug that box in at your office and it works fine?

The answer is then something that's plugged in that isn't at your office! Like... a UPS that's via USB telling the unit to kill itself because the power is out.

 

[frase]

Yes I would agree, though I unplugged everything else at the residence as well. Also as I stated I used another power point in another room, BAM same thing.

 

[DRPCNZ]

Yes I would agree, though I unplugged everything else at the residence as well. Also as I stated I used another power point in another room, BAM same thing.

Powerpoint may still be on the same circuit as the other outlet. Try an outlet on the other side of the house

 

[Sky-Knight]

An actual shutdown notice comes when something triggers a shutdown. That's software calling for a shutdown.

So you're looking at UPSs, wireless peripherals, etc.

It's also possible there's another machine on the network sending a remote shutdown request to the unit because the admin creds to do that are compromised or known.

This isn't a power problem, if you had a power problem it'd simply not turn on, and when it turned off it'd be instant and improper.

This is software.

Unplug / disconnect it from the network. With no network access at all, does it still do it?

You could at least narrow it down to something on the LAN telling it to shut off.

 

[frase]

Yes I had everythink Dk'd only kb\mouse which is wireless, though customer did state they tried a wired one with same result.

 

[GTP]

Swap out the PSU. I know you said it's fine in your workshop but PSU's can be sensitive to "dirty power".
Wouldn't hurt to try another PSU.

 

[Markverhyden]

What happens when in safe mode? Did you try to roll back MS updates or roll back to an earlier restore point?

 

[Metanis]

- Owner is an electrician...

Owner was experimenting with UPS software? Remember also the Golden Rule of computer tech; Never Trust A User!

 

[autumn]

is it straight in to the wall or via a powerboard? If via a powerboard, do they have a heater plugged in to it as well? Heater, even laser printer, in the same powerboard can cause strange results.

 

[Diggs]

I had something like this once. The power button was getting caught on the case and being held down. It was almost imperceptible so the owner never caught on. They had the computer for years. Not sure what changed. I dremelled a slightly bigger hole in the case and all was good.

 

[GTP]

I had something like this once. The power button was getting caught on the case and being held down. It was almost imperceptible so the owner never caught on. They had the computer for years. Not sure what changed. I dremelled a slightly bigger hole in the case and all was good.

I've had the same issue more than once. Cheap cases have little bits of plastic stuck on the buttons that can grab/catch.
I never thought of it till you mentioned it.

 

[frase]

Owner was experimenting with UPS software? Remember also the Golden Rule of computer tech; Never Trust A User!

No there are no UPS, and he doesnt go tinkering with the PC.
Does it in safe mode as well
It is plugged in directly to wall socket - even on a separate socket in another room same.
Nothing to do with Power Button, as works in my workshop fine.

 

[frase]

Well I think I sorted it, I checked some suggestions whilst conducting GoogleFu.
Where about various things, mainly power. I am unsure which one was the one or a culmination.
Though finally in the end, seems sorted as I pray to the Deus Ex Machina.

 

[GTP]

In the olden days I'd often solve this problem by moving the power connection to the reset switch - they tended to be more reliable as well as smaller and harder to press by accident. As a bonus the user was left without an actual reset switch, which was universally a Good Thing.

I have done this on a few occasions, not just because the buttons would stick either.
Its an effective ploy to stop Grandchild 1 from confounding Grandma buy turning off the PC for fun.

On one occasion, I've rerouted wires to a switch on the rear of the PC for this same reason.

 

[seashore]

Well I think I sorted it, I checked some suggestions whilst conducting GoogleFu.
Where about various things, mainly power. I am unsure which one was the one or a culmination.
Though finally in the end, seems sorted as I pray to the Deus Ex Machina.

Just for info, what did you do to solve it?

 

[frase]

I did many things I cannot recall, I will try and retrace my steps.

 

[HCHTech]

I had a case once where an older woman had gotten a new computer and reported that it just wouldn't stay on. She would power it on and it would immediately shut down. When I got there and asked her to show me, here she was holding in the power button for 5 or 6 seconds instead of just a simple press and release. When I showed her how to do it correctly, she directed me to the ancient florescent desk lamp where a long press was required to turn it on, probably because of a failing starter. "It's always been that way" she said. Well anyway, I told her - don't do that to your computer - haha.

 

[britechguy]

she directed me to the ancient florescent desk lamp where a long press was required to turn it on, probably because of a failing starter.

I actually still have one of those in articulating arm form that has a central incandescent lamp socket as well as a fluorescent "in the round" light. I also once had a 2-tube desklamp.

Both require(d) a long press to fire up the fluorescents, as there is no ballast, and that's what "triggers" the starter.

I'm actually shocked that anyone would transfer this to anything else. The vast majority of the switches in the world work in the opposite of this way.